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All Aboard

This Southern–to–Central Coast California tour puts Amtrak to the test. See what it takes to get from here to there while riding the rails.

By Ron Donoho
All Aboard

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THERE’S RISK INVOLVED. I’m going to prove myself to be a foolish commuter or a bon vivant traveler. By planning to vacation via Amtrak——from San Diego to three California cities and back——I’m putting my reputation (not to mention my luggage) on the line. Everyone does Cali by car. Can it be done by train?

I’m hoping a six-day Pacific Surfliner journey will be hassle-free. Ticketing the trip is a little complicated, though. If you’re not familiar with one, an Amtrak schedule can look like a war plan for invading Kazakhstan. Amtrak allows ticketing the day of a trip, and even on the train if you’re running late. To get a 10 percent AAA discount, book three days ahead. Santa Barbara–bound train passengers can take advantage of a car-free promotion that lops 20 percent off the price.

Total cost for the four legs of this trip is just $109. Collective time to be spent riding the train: 16 hours. Based on mapquest.com tabulations, the 600-mile drive would take 10 hours on the road (assuming no traffic delays——yeah, right). And gas would cost around $100. So it seems a fair tradeoff. Prepare to leave the station.

San Diego to Los Angeles

When I think about L.A., I gravitate toward beachfront Santa Monica. A new hotel——The Huntley——is on my radar. In making train plans, however, this is my first boo-boo. L.A.’s Union Station is not conveniently located near Santa Monica.

From Union Station, I take the subway to the “Santa Monica” stop. Actually, it’s a downtown L.A. stop at Santa Monica Boulevard and Vermont Avenue. I look up at a banner that reads LITTLE ARMENIA. I’m traveling light ——with backpack and small rolling suitcase——far from Private Benjamin arriving for the first day of boot camp. I am, however, the only person in sight toting luggage. I call a cab. Cost: $45.

The Huntley proves to be a charmer. Intimate and modern, the décor features lots of woods and teaks. The 209-room property has beds with 100 percent Egyptian cotton Matteo linens——perfect for lying on to watch the 42-inch plasma television. The hotel’s business center offers free Internet access.

The star Huntley attraction is the rooftop Penthouse restaurant. Eighteen stories up, Penthouse tables serve up views of the Pacific and airplanes landing off in the distance at LAX. The restaurant interior is nearly all white. Late night, the eatery converts to an ultra bar. A waiter dishes that Jennifer Garner, Ben Affleck, Bill Murray, Owen and Luke Wilson and even Monica Lewinsky have made the scene.

A bloody Mary–imbued shrimp cocktail is a tasty starter. And the tuna tartare dish is (literally) a hidden treat. The plate is served with a sliver of tuna and a sliced avocado ball. Inside the avocado ball, the pit has been replaced with a plentiful portion of tuna. “I have to tell most people it’s in there,” the waiter says. “Some people get mad at first.”